Chef: "Top Chef" runner-up Brooke Williamson and her husband and partner Nick Roberts. The two also own Hudson House and the Tripel.
Concept: Four different concepts in one space, just off the water in Playa del Rey. In the front you can pick up sandwiches and salads at the King Beach before you hit the sand. Small Batch is an ice cream counter with house-made ice cream flavors and Dockside is a sit-down restaurant with a seafood-centric menu. At Grain, the bar, there are more than 50 whiskeys and bourbons including a house barrel-aged whiskey.
What dish represents the restaurant and why? The lobster roll. Williamson and Roberts' version of the classic comes on a buttered, toasted roll stuffed with chunks of lobster in a light dressing, diced celery, crunchy crushed potato chips and pickled mustard seeds. It's an elevated classic that's fun, not stuffy. There's also salt cod clam chowder in a bread bowl, albacore and rock shrimp ceviche with fresh coconut, passion fruit and salmon roe and grilled whole Maine lobster with drawn butter and umami buttered corn.
Runners-up? The uni ciabatta and the Hula Pie. The ciabatta comes toasted and topped with melted uni garlic butter. It's like warm, crisp garlic bread with just a hint of briny sea urchin. And for dessert, the Hula Pie features the restaurant's house coconut ice cream on a thin layer of chocolate cookie crust. It's topped with lime zest, a rum caramel sauce and chocolate-covered macadamia nuts.
Who's at the next table? Two older men sipping red wine, glancing over to include themselves in your conversation, a couple of young co-eds at the bar sipping Manhattans, and a man walking through the restaurant holding a fluffy white dog in his arms.
What are you drinking? A glass of 2013 Listel "Grain de Gris" rose.
Uh-oh: With limited street parking, you'll most likely need to valet. But it's only $2.
Info: 119 Culver Blvd., Playa del Rey, (310) 683-5019, playaprovisions.com.
I'm buying the first round. Follow me on Twitter @Jenn_Harris_
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Scouting report: Uni garlic bread, lobster rolls at Playa Provisions' Dockside
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